Behind the seams: 7 ways to recognize a high-quality blazer

When talking about quality in construction, people often refer to two historical tailoring schools: the English and the Italian. English tailoring is characterized by structure, shape retention, and precision, while the Italian style represents soft construction, natural shoulders, and lightness. However, despite the differences, the quality criteria are fundamentally the same. A well-made jacket – whether it comes from Naples or Savile Row – is built on the same principles: proportions, balance, construction, and materials that come together in a well-thought-out whole.

Just like with shirts, it is often the small, thoughtful solutions that reveal the level of craftsmanship. This involves pattern construction, interlinings, and sewing techniques – not just the label in the neck.

In the Behind the Seams- series, we show you how to recognize high-quality garments. By understanding what happens behind the seams, it becomes significantly easier to choose a jacket that maintains its fit, structure, and elegance year after year.

1.     The Interlining: The Jacket's Hidden Framework

The interlining is the part of the jacket that builds the garment's structure and shape, determining how it drapes and ages. In higher-quality tailoring, the interlining is sewn like a canvas – a hand- or machine-stitched construction (usually made of linen, cotton, or wool) with elements of horse or camel hair. This combination gives the jacket a three-dimensional front that naturally molds to the wearer over time.

Full canvas is the most high-quality method, extending from the shoulder all the way down over the front piece, providing maximum flexibility, durability, and a natural drape.

Half canvas, common among quality ready-to-wear brands, extends from the shoulder down to approximately the level of the breast pocket. In contrast, there are fusible fronts, where a synthetic interlining is heat-pressed against the outer fabric. This method is efficient, but the construction becomes flatter, lacking three-dimensionality, and may risk bubbling over time as the adhesive weakens.

Tip! Gently pinch the fabric behind the lapel. A separate, movable layer all the way down indicates full canvas, only over the chest suggests half canvas, and no movable layer indicates a fusible front.

2.     The Fabric: Why the Weaver Matters

The fabric is the outer expression of the jacket, but it’s also an important indicator of quality. A clear and accessible sign of quality is which weaver stands behind the fabric. More and more fashion brands today collaborate with renowned producers such as Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, or Abraham Moon – weavers who have refined their techniques over generations and created fabrics with a more balanced drape, deeper colors, and a smoother finish.

When a brand uses fabric from a reputable weaver, it’s not just an aesthetic marker; it shows that they have invested in materials that maintain their shape longer, wrinkle less, and age more beautifully. These weavers are also specialists in suit and jacket fabrics, which means they have full control over draping, weaving techniques, and stability.

In short: if you see the name of a well-known weaver in the garment, it is often a reliable sign of quality!

3.     Hand-applied collar

The collar is one of the most revealing areas of a blazer, and a hand-applied collar is a clear sign of good craftsmanship. Instead of being sewn in place with a straight machine stitch, the collar is attached by hand with small, flexible stitches. The fabric is folded back and shaped manually in several steps, resulting in a thinner and more supple attachment than with machine sewing.

The purpose of a hand-applied collar is to lay closer and more evenly against the shirt collar and to retain its shape over time. Moreover, this method conceals excess fabric that a tailor can later adjust if the blazer needs alterations. Therefore, a hand-applied collar is a clear indication of a blazer where construction has not been compromised.

How to recognize it: Lift the collar and look at the backside. If you can see small hand stitches and a folded fabric edge, the collar is hand-applied.

4.     Lapel with Natural Roll

The roll of the lapel is a direct result of how the collar and canvas are shaped, and there is a significant difference between simple ready-to-wear and higher craftsmanship levels. On a well-made jacket, the lapel is not sharply pressed into a flat fold, but built with light padding and thousands of small stitches in the canvas that provide volume, elasticity, and a natural roll. This technique, called pad stitching, creates a soft roll where the lapel follows the shape of the chest instead of breaking off in a sharp line.

Tip! Lift the lapel. A quality lapel springs softly and has a rounded, lively shape, while a simpler lapel lies flat and is sharply pressed into a stiff fold.

5.     Hand-Stitched Buttonholes

Buttonholes are a small detail with a significant revealing level of craftsmanship. On more advanced jackets, the buttonholes are hand-stitched with dense, rolled stitches that provide a thicker and more durable edge than machine-stitched buttonholes, which are standard in ready-to-wear. When it comes to cut and uncut buttonholes, there is nothing in itself that indicates higher quality. Cut buttonholes are often found at higher levels, but they are not a direct sign of quality – they are primarily an aesthetic detail that also makes the sleeve more difficult to shorten. The true indicator of quality is how the buttonhole is sewn: dense, even stitches and a rolled edge without thread loops.

Tip! Examine the buttonhole closely. A tight, even, and rounded seam at the buttonhole indicates handwork.

6.     Pattern Matching

On a quality jacket, pattern matching is about creating the most uninterrupted overall appearance possible. Stripes, checks, or houndstooth patterns should flow over as many seams as the technique allows, and especially over pockets – one of the clearest areas where skilled tailoring becomes visible. When the pattern continues seamlessly between pockets and the front piece, it requires both precision and more craftsmanship time.

Even between the shoulder and the chest, there is a strive to minimize interruptions, but there are natural limitations since the garment is shaped in three dimensions. Therefore, pattern matching can never be completely perfect everywhere – but the ambition to create a harmonious whole is a clear sign of quality. 

Tip! Hold up the patterned jacket and examine the pockets and front piece. Lines that continue uninterrupted and are symmetrically aligned are a good sign. Large gaps reveal simpler production.

7.     The details that complete the whole

In addition to construction and fabric, there are small details that can signal extra care.

Buttons made of buffalo horn or corozo are one such marker, as they both have greater durability and develop a more beautiful patina than plastic.

Even pick stitching along the lapels, shoulders, and pockets can indicate high craftsmanship. On better jackets, these are done by hand or with a more advanced machine, which helps keep the edges sharp and prevents the fabric from rolling.

The Barchetta pocket, the slightly boat-shaped breast pocket common in Italian tailoring, is another detail that requires more work than a straight pocket. It follows the shape of the chest, complements the roll of the lapel, and is a subtle sign of skilled tailoring.

All these tailoring details testify to care, quality, and solid craftsmanship. The jacket is, despite its modern interpretations, a traditional garment that carries layers of history and techniques from classic tailoring. Even though today’s versions vary in style and expression, it is often the same details that reveal a truly well-made jacket: the construction beneath the surface, the hidden stitches, the choice of materials, and the time invested in shaping the garment.

A quality jacket is about balance, precision, and thoughtful design – elements that may not always be visible at first glance, but which are felt every time the garment is worn.